Know Your Shoes : the Derby

Know Your Shoes : the Derby

gentlemen welcome to a new episode of subtle talk we are back at corporal union in Atlanta Georgia the famous shoe store of the area and today we're going to cover a second category of type of shoes which are called the derbies okay there's a can of erm debate between the purists whether we have to say Derby or Darby in the UK they usually say Oh Darby and in the USA more they say more a Derby and to complicate a little bit more the semantic discussion some people also call them a bludger but that's a difference between a butcher and a derby that we're going to explain later the first thing I want you to remember is the difference between an Oxford and a Derby and it's very easy to explain I will show it to you immediately this is an Oxford you remember in the former episode of sartorial talks we covered this very classical shoe which is a lace-up shoe in which you have the eyelets that are directly perforated inside the body of the shoe inside what we call the vamp of the shoe as you can see the Derby has what we call a shoe tab which is stitched on top of the body of the shoe so you see the difference on the Oxford there's no tab on this there's an additional piece of leather which is stitched on the body of the shoe this one is a very beautiful and stylish Derby which is called a two eyelid Derby but previously the Derby were more created for outdoors and for more casual occasion as Sonja will explain to you now you may remember earlier we said that before the 1840s men wore boots with suits well one theory is that the man who propelled the shoe forward over the boot besides the fact that the roads were improving at the time so the shoes wouldn't be getting so muddy and dirty and when you wore them with suits but the man's name was Edward Smith Stanley and this is a theory he was the Earl of Derby and this is one reason we think that it's called the Derby shoe but he had big feet we could say even balumptuous' speed and he was having difficulty wearing his Oxford style boots and so he decided that he would have a shoe design for him that would accommodate his foot which I've also to read that had a high instep so this shoe is considered much more comfortable this design and so this was developed for him and from then on other people who had maybe the same issues with the larger foot followed suit or maybe they liked the design and so they followed and thus propelled forward the darby shoe so as son I just explained to you this shoe was created for some comfort issues but it was mainly used until very recently as an outdoor shoe something more casual and more easy to wear than an Oxford shoe recently I would say in the last two decades or maybe in specifically in the last decade the heavy shoe which is an which is darby you know this this additional leather is adding weight and it'll bit bulk to the shoe it's so this is why it was more outdoor had been have a looking slightly to more refined designs this very sporty shhoo has been evolving recently to something very sophisticated that is definitely not a town shoe which is what we call a two eyelid derby this is a two eyelid derby which is extremely popular this day so it's the same idea you have tabs that are sewn directly on the shoe that additional but it's more refined so you understand that this outdoor shoe has been evaluating slowly into a town shoe and today honestly this kind of shoe can be as business and as formal as an Oxford shoe but that's another thing that we want to explain to you is that in some country darvey's are called butcher and Sonya will explain you why something that's very confusing for me initially because I would hear blue Chur and Darby interchangeably used and it took me a while to figure it out but after some a little bit of research and asking a few experts about the matter I learned that it's basically a design issue if you look at this blue true shoe which by the way was inspired from a military boot back in the 1800s the boot was actually cut off to form a shoe this is actually very utilitarian piece and so if you notice the design factor I'm referring to is this area right here the eyelet tab which is shaped I call it like a hockey stick and it's a very good way to define the two because if you look at the Darby it's not it's a cut that's such a sharp angle look at this specific design factor and you'll know the difference between a Blue Chair and a Darby shoe and I would like Sonia thank you for this brilliant explanation about the butcher and the Darby's yeah that was very brilliant the aim of this series is to give you some historical reference and as I know our readers of Perez of gentlemen they love to understand what is behind everything this is why we take the time to give you some historical references about every type of shoe and the last one which is technically not exactly a derby as you can see here because there's only one tab which is sewn on the body of the shoe it's actually technically it's a half Derby because you only have the tab on one side and not on the other side this one is called amongst rap so why amongst rap I would like Sonia to explain to you why we call the Thurman strap it was worn by monks but initially as a sandal so as you know we can't wear sandals year-round so the monks literally just took the same design as the sandal made a closure and thus we have the monk strap and this is a very simple explanation and I think that this is probably one of the biggest hits in the last five years in classic men's shoe especially the Italians have propelled this drink 51 mo a lot of times this is worn with the straps open just to give more of a sweat suit or type feel to it and it doesn't look like this trends going away it's only growing stronger so this is a very popular shoe and I think should be part of every man's wardrobe Thank You Sonia for this explanation about the historical meaning of the monk shoe something I want to add is that many shoe lovers in the world may know is that this double monk strap was popularized in France at the beginning with John Lobb in Paris actually John Lobb created this double monk strap in the mid 80s when the Herman's group after buying the journal herb Brown decided to move to the ready-to-wear industry and that was their first ready-to-wear I develop in Paris they decided to make this double monk strap the signature shoe it was called the William and many Sullivan should know about that but this has become a staple in every shoe of her wardrobe and I really really invite you all to make acquisition of such a shoe because not only it's beautiful to wear it's interesting to wear it's a stylistic statement but it's also extremely comfortable for any type of it this ends our second episode on the different type of man shoe we hope to see you in for the next episode of subtle talk that will be dedicated to the lovers and to the boots and in the meantime Cheers

38 thoughts on “Know Your Shoes : the Derby”

  • I have and deeply love my Leeds Blucher Oxfords…just a perfect all around design to me. Thank you Sonya for clarifying the difference between a Blucher and a Derby…very similar to the uninitiated.

  • Dear Hugo,I had been suffering from acute foot ache for a very long time.I visited the best Doctors and took the best medical treatment possible but the pain remained and was getting worse as time progressed.But all that is History thanks you and the knowledge I have gained about shoes from your blog.I changed my supermarket bought loafers to a pair of handmade Derby’s and my foot pain from the past 10 years has vanished.Thank you so much for this information. Wish u all the best

  • The definition of derby and blucher is still confusing.
    On the video, She shows the derby shoe after explanation of blucher shoe.
    However, the derby shoe is also blucher refer to Wikipedia or others.

    The blucher was the shape of the original combat boots cut. Also, I think the shoelace was not used generally before. It means the piece of eyelet tap just was sewed on the upper of boots. The design at the time, eyelet tap part didn't cover the side and heel-counter part. On this point, the derby she said is close to a blucher.

    Wikipedia says "A blucher ( /ˈbluːtʃər/ or /ˈbluːkər/, German pronunciation: [ˈblʏçɐ], Blücher) is a style of shoe with open lacing, its vamp made of a single piece of leather ("one cut"), with shoelace eyelets tabs sewn on top.
    The blucher is similar to a derby: both feature open lacing, in contrast to the Oxford shoe, which uses close lacing, but in the derby the upper has large quarters with eyelets sewn on top, while in the blucher the upper is made of one cut, with only the small eyelet tabs sewn on top. In American English, these terms are sometimes confused, with "blucher" also being used to refer to derby shoes, and "Oxford" also being used to refer to bluchers.
    The blucher is named after the 18th-century Prussian field marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher. General von Blücher commissioned a boot with side pieces lapped over the front in an effort to provide his troops with improved footwear. This design was adopted by armies across Europe."

  • Love d monk strap n d derby shoes shown. Very classy. Thank u for a wonderful video. Keep up the good work.

  • Addicted in a positive way to your highly imformative episodes. Great video . Keep up the superb work you two .

  • I love watching these videos and Whisky Vault videos….both make you feel happy about the fine things in life.

    By the way, "Derby" is actually pronounced as "Dar".

    Just like Gloucester is pronounced "Gloster"

    These are English names, not American, and thus should be pronounced the English way.

  • Can’t get enough of your videos. Great content. It’s refreshing to watch someone who loves their calling!

  • Everything here is telling an authentic story of creation and pure desire for perfection with an amazing taste of originality and sense of reality …Thank you both for these wonderful and delightful talks.

  • Very important point about the DMS' comfortability to any type of foot. The height of your instep doesn't matter as much as you can simply adjust the straps over your instep accordingly and get the perfect fit in that regard…then only having the length correct is important which is easy with a proper sizing of your foot to the manufacturers size scale.

  • You two are a great team. Awesome presentation, very informative and inspirational. I recently discovered your channel and have embraced your knowledge and insights into my own desire to become more of a “Gentleman”, in its most traditional and thought out definition. I guess one of the blessings of age and experience is, making the decision to embrace the many components that come with ones desire to be a more complete human being. Ultimately, it seems to be the “Journey” that holds the subtle lessons that lead us to our truth. Stay Blessed and Thank You!!!

  • Hugo, I could listen to you for days and weeks. And your suit is astonishing. I have a problem with getting the right shoes for my Diabetic feet. I have to use orthopedic insoles because my arches are reversed (the opposite of an arch). Do you know if there's any shoemaker that can make special shoes for my feet? I currently use Hush Puppies and they're alright. But nothing stylish and as beautiful as a pair of Derby's or Monk Straps. And I absolutely refuse to wear special Diabetic shoes that makes people look like Frankenstein.

  • Spectacular content, yes captivating, impressive background information, inspirational. Thank you. Do you have give some advice about the shoe colour, and your advice?

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